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    新品在中國熱賣,博柏利股價大漲

    Robert Williams, 彭博社 2019年07月24日

    這個品牌的網紅設計師將經典重新設計后在中國迅速走紅,需求大增。

    2019年2月倫敦時裝周,一位嘉賓站在博柏利展臺外,身穿博柏利夾克衫,圍著印有字母花樣的領巾。圖片來源:Photo by Edward Berthelot—Getty Images

    博柏利集團股價飆升,因為網紅設計師將經典重新設計后在中國迅速走紅,需求大增。

    在截至6月的三個月里,博柏利的同店銷售增長4%,達到分析師預測的兩倍。博柏利在上周二表示,去年設計師里卡多·提西加盟品牌之后推出的新品實現了兩位數百分比的強勁增長,此前提西在法國時尚品牌紀梵希從事設計而知名。

    博柏利在倫敦市場股價最高上漲達11%,創下2012年以來的最大漲幅。

    提西剛到博柏利,就給各個店面和廣告牌加上了新的字母印花圖案,在旅行包、高跟鞋和風衣等產品里也一并添加,與酩悅·軒尼詩-路易·威登集團的旗艦品牌路易威登等注重顯示商標的同行展開競爭。

    提西加入博柏利后,在去年秋天舉辦了首場時裝秀,新造型在Instagram和中國的微信等社交平臺上重新引起了消費者的興趣,之后公司在各商店大力鋪貨。

    盡管第二季度中國經濟增速創下了近30年新低,但該季度博柏利在中國大陸的銷售額增長了十幾個百分點,超出分析師預期。

    新的字母圖案

    “字母印花在中國引發了強烈共鳴。” 公司的首席財務官朱莉·布朗在接受記者的電話采訪時說道。“新設計吸引了很多千禧一代顧客。”

    雖然受到關店沖擊,但隨著提西推出的新品推動更快增長,博柏利維持了營收持平的業績預期。博柏利一直在縮減非奢侈品和折扣門店的規模,降低百貨商店業績低迷帶來的風險,同時努力提升品牌認知度。

    在歐洲奢侈品公司當中,博柏利第一家公布第二季度銷售額,在中國需求的回彈力度受到質疑之際,這份強勁的財報可能提振全行業的預期。

    中國當局最近出臺了降低銷售稅和提升進口關稅等政策,刺激中國消費者減少國外購物游,轉為國內消費。但布朗表示,由于很多中國游客熱愛提西推出的新品,還是拉升了博柏利在英國的銷量。

    博柏利的設計創新“應該能讓人相信中國大陸的消費可健康增長”,MainFirst的分析師約翰·蓋伊在一份報告中表示。博柏利在整個亞洲地區的業績都好于預期,但在重要購物中心香港可能受頻繁的抗議活動拖累。

    前任設計師克里斯托弗·貝利在職后期,博柏利陷入了增長停滯,提西的加入為品牌設計注入了新活力。在此之前,貝利用時尚的英倫校園風設計風格幫助博柏利提高了五倍營收。

    蕾哈娜和麥當娜

    為紀梵希工作期間,提西將傳奇性的法國高級定制品牌與流行文化偶像碧昂斯和金·卡戴珊搭上了橋。在加入博柏利后,他推出的新造型一面世就受到了蕾哈娜、麥當娜和伊莉娜·莎伊克等人的熱捧,也借機提升了網絡知名度。

    博柏利表示,提西加入公司一年以后,截至第二季度末他的新設計占到店內銷售約一半。(財富中文網)

    譯者:艾倫

    審校:夏林

    Burberry Group Plc surged as demand for its social-media-savvy designer’s revamped looks took off in China.

    Store sales rose 4% on a comparable basis for the three months through June, double the rate analysts predicted. New collections from Riccardo Tisci, who joined the U.K. luxury brand last year after winning fame at the French fashion house Givenchy, delivered strong double-digit percentage growth, Burberry said last Tuesday.

    The shares rose as much as 11% in London trading, the most since 2012 on an intraday basis.

    Tisci marked his arrival at Burberry by plastering a flashy new monogram print across store fronts and billboards, and on products including duffel bags, high-heeled shoes and trench coats in a bid to compete with logo-focused labels like LVMH flagship Louis Vuitton.

    Since Tisci’s first runway show for the brand last fall, Burberry has been racing to get those products into stores as the new look sparked renewed interest on social networks like Instagram and China’s WeChat.

    Sales in Mainland China rose in the mid-teen percentages during the quarter, outpacing analyst expectations, even as that country reported its slowest economic growth in almost three decades.

    New Monogram

    “The monogram has resonated very strongly with the Chinese,” Chief Financial Officer Julie Brown said in a call with reporters. “We’ve attracted more millennials with that range.”

    The company maintained guidance for flat revenue as the faster growth from Tisci’s collections will help offset the impact of store closures. Burberry has been scaling back non-luxury and discount locations to cut exposure to struggling department stores and boost perception of the brand.

    Burberry is the first European luxury company to report sales this quarter, and the strong report could boost prospects across the sector amid questions about the resilience of Chinese demand.

    Policies including recent cuts to sales taxes and import duties have encouraged Chinese shoppers to rein in foreign shopping trips and instead spend at home. Yet Chinese tourists also boosted the company’s U.K. performance, Brown said, as shoppers sought out Tisci’s looks.

    Burberry’s update “should reassure with a healthy uptick in mainland Chinese consumption,” MainFirst analyst John Guy said in a note. Results were better than expected across Asia, where protests in the key Hong Kong shopping hub were seen as a possible drag.

    Tisci has breathed new life into the brand’s designs after growth stagnated at the end of previous designer Christopher Bailey’s tenure. Previously, Bailey helped increase Burberry’s revenues fivefold with his sleek, preppy take on British style.

    Rihanna, Madonna

    At Givenchy, Tisci forged alliances between the storied French couture house and pop-culture icons like Beyonce and Kim Kardashian. At Burberry, early adopters of his new look have included Rihanna, Madonna, and Irina Shayk—boosting the brand’s visibility online.

    A year after Tisci’s arrival at Burberry, his revamped designs made up roughly half of products in stores by the end of the quarter, the company said.

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