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    從反派演員到餐飲大亨,丹尼·特雷霍如何一路逆襲?

    Stacey Wilson Hunt 2019年08月03日

    演員特雷霍向《財富》雜志講述了他闖蕩好萊塢,以及開辦餐廳的種種奇遇。

    2019年7月11日,丹尼·特雷霍在位于好萊塢的特雷霍玉米餅餐廳里。圖片來源:Photograph by Joe Toreno for Fortune

    關于丹尼·特雷霍的所有事情都讓人出乎意料,連他成功的秘訣都與眾不同。

    “我碰上的好事都是因為幫助了別人。”75歲的特雷霍說。此刻他坐在旗下發展迅速的業務特雷霍酒吧好萊塢分店包廂里,身材驚人地結實,身高5英尺6英寸(約1.68米),全身黑衣,長長的黑發自然垂在銀色十字項鏈旁。

    他說話輕聲細語,特別喜歡擊掌慶祝,根本看不出人生完全可能走上不同的軌道。特雷霍出生在洛杉磯,父母都是美籍墨西哥人,青少年時期由于吸毒和搶劫,大部分時間都在出入加州監獄。坐牢期間,還有出獄之后,他精通了拳擊技能(在加州圣昆廷監獄里會拳擊很有用),25歲改邪歸正,變成高產的個性演員,同時擔任青少年毒品咨詢師和勵志演說家,發現對回饋社會充滿熱情。

    Nothing about Danny Trejo is what you might expect, including his secret to success.

    “Everything good that’s happened to me is a direct result of me helping other people,” says Trejo, 75, whose surprisingly compact 5-foot-6 frame—clad in all black, his long dark hair hanging loose alongside a silver cross necklace—is tucked inside a booth at the Hollywood hub of his booming taco business, Trejo’s Cantina.

    His soft-spoken reflectiveness and fondness for high-fives belie a life that could have gone very differently: Born to Mexican-American parents in Los Angeles, Trejo spent most of his young-adult life in and out of California prisons for drugs and robberies. It was during that time and since then that he honed his boxing talents (a helpful skill in venues like San Quentin), got sober at 25, became a prolific character actor, and, from working as a youth drug counselor and motivational speaker, discovered how much he loves giving back.

    2019年7月11日,丹尼·特雷霍在特雷霍玉米餅餐廳廚房里。圖片來源:Photograph by Joe Toreno for Fortune

    如今,洛杉磯的8家特雷霍玉米餅餐廳里都能夠看到他那張飽經風霜的臉,食物也非常受歡迎。《洛杉磯時報》將彩虹花菜玉米餅列為2017年最受歡迎的十大菜之一;一到周末,餐廳里每天約有500位顧客;還有可能擴大業務,其中包括在加州之外開甜甜圈店。(最近他還推出了特雷霍啤酒屋,在洛杉磯地區出售營養食品和Total Wine酒水。)神奇的是,特雷霍還可以抽出時間演戲。他的從影生涯中共演過近300部影視劇,很快還要增加20多部,其中包括《彎刀》續集和8月即將上映的《愛探險的朵拉:消失的黃金城》。在《消失的黃金城》中,他為名叫布茨的猴子配音,特雷霍自豪地說,該角色“能夠吸引到更多的新觀眾。”

    7月初,《財富》雜志與特雷霍聊了聊他如何在餐飲領域變身大亨、在好萊塢的奇遇,以及如何從泥足深陷的小混混走上正路。

    《財富》:感覺特雷霍玉米餅在洛杉磯很出名,其實才開了三年。你為什么進軍餐飲業?

    特雷霍:我媽媽就是一位擅長做美食的大廚。我12歲左右就說:“我們家應該開個餐館。”但我爸爸就像墨西哥人阿奇·邦克(20世紀70年代美國電視劇《全家福》主角——譯注)一樣固執。“嘿,家里已經有廚房了!”(笑)七年前,我拍了一部低成本電影《壞蛋》,有個叫阿什·沙赫的制片人注意到我不喜歡垃圾食品。我吃東西很挑剔!合作幾部電影之后,阿什說:“丹尼,你真應該開家餐館。”然后他為特雷霍玉米餅制定了商業計劃。我的團隊說,“沒有人讓你先墊上5萬美元,應該就是好主意!”餐廳開張后特別火爆。兩年前我們開了一家甜甜圈店,每天下午兩點前就售罄了。

    安東尼·波登2017年在這里拍攝《未知之旅》時,對你家的玉米餅贊不絕口。當天感覺怎樣?

    非常棒。他開玩笑說:“你是墨西哥人,有花菜玉米餅嗎?”他嘗了之后很喜歡。晚上五六點總會看到很多家庭來吃飯。有次一位女士告訴我:“能夠找到這里太感謝上帝了。”孩子們可以吃不含麩質的食物,媽媽可以吃素,爸爸可以吃牛肉!

    Today, Trejo’s iconic craggy visage fronts eight Trejo’s Tacos locations across Los Angeles, and the eats are a hit: The Los Angeles Times named the rainbow cauliflower tacos on its 2017 list of 10 favorite recipes; the Cantina location serves around 500 diners a day on weekends; and there’s talk of expanding the business, which now includes a doughnut shop, outside California. (He’s also recently launched Trejo’s Cerveza, currently for sale at L.A.-area Whole Foods and Total Wine.) Somehow Trejo also still has time for acting: He’ll soon add 20-plus roles to his nearly 300-credit film and TV résumé, including a second Machete sequel and August’s Dora and the Lost City of Gold, in which he voices a monkey named Boots, a role Trejo says proudly “will give me a whole new audience.”

    Fortune chatted with Trejo in early July about his food-mogul renaissance, his adventures in Hollywood, and how he learned to channel a misspent youth into a force for good.

    Fortune: Trejo’s Tacos feels like an L.A. institution, yet it’s only three years old. What inspired you to get into the restaurant business?

    Trejo: My mom was a gourmet cook. When I around 12, I’d say, “We should start a restaurant,” but my dad was like a Mexican Archie Bunker. “Hey, we’ve got a kitchen right there!” [Laughs] Seven years ago I did a low-budget movie called Bad Ass, and one of the producers, Ash Shah, noticed that I didn’t like junk food. I am pretty picky! A few movies later, Ash says, “Danny, you should start a restaurant.” He created a business plan for Trejo’s Tacos. My team said, “If nobody’s asking you to front 50 grand, seems like a good idea!” We opened, and it totally blew up. Two years ago we opened the doughnut shop, and we sell out by 2 p.m. every day.

    Anthony Bourdain raved about your tacos when he filmed Parts Unknown here in 2017. What was that day like for you?

    Amazing. He joked, “You’re Mexican and you have a cauliflower taco?” He loved it. At around five or six o’clock at night, you’ll see a lot families coming in here. One woman told me, “Thank God for this place.” The kids can be gluten-free, mom can be vegetarian, and Dad can have cow!

    特雷霍玉米餅提供無麩質食物和素食。圖片來源:Photograph by Joe Toreno for Fortune

    菜單上你最喜歡的食物是什么?

    早餐我最喜歡玉米片加牛排,還有兩個雞蛋。

    你最新轉型當餐館老板,是超現實職業生涯中的又一個轉折點。你認為自己一直堅持的動力是什么?

    我身邊有好朋友幫忙。跟經紀人合作已經25年了。我在圣昆廷監獄拍電影的時候遇到了現在的助理馬里奧,當時他還在坐牢。現在他跟我也15年了。

    你是1985年喬·沃特主演的電影《暴走列車》中當拳擊教練時被發現的。但一直到1995年,你在表弟羅伯特·羅德里格茲的電影《殺人三部曲》里扮演扔刀子的納瓦賈,才開始扮演重要角色。聽說你們直到電影開拍才知道彼此是親戚,是真的么?

    我們第一次見面是在洛杉磯試鏡,他說:“你讓我想起高中時遇到的壞人。”我說:“我就是你高中里的壞人!”然后我們在墨西哥阿庫那開拍。家人從圣安東尼奧來片場看我。叔叔魯迪問我:“那是誰?”我說:“是導演羅伯特·羅德里格茲。”他向羅伯特吹了下口哨打招呼說:“嘿!來跟你二表哥丹尼問好!”我跟著說:“哈,表弟,給我加點戲份吧!”但他沒有給我加戲。不過他告訴我:“丹尼,你的面部表演比大多數演員用對白還有表現力。”當時我光著上身,露出紋身,不少人找我要簽名。羅伯特說:“他們以為你是明星。”我說:“你的意思是我不是明星?”當時沒有什么人認識(男主角)安東尼奧·班德拉斯。他很安靜,不像我那么鬧騰。(笑)

    What’s your favorite thing on the menu?

    I love the nachos with steak and two eggs on top for breakfast.

    Your latest incarnation as a restaurateur is another twist in an already surreal career. To what do you attribute your staying power?

    I have good people around me. The same agent for 25 years. I met my assistant Mario at San Quentin when I made a movie there, and he was a prisoner. He’s been with me for 15 years.

    You were discovered while working as a boxing coach on the set of the 1985 Jon Voight movie Runaway Train. But it wasn’t until you were cast as the knife-throwing Navajas in your cousin Robert Rodriguez’s 1995 film Desperado that you started to play substantial roles. Is it true you didn’t know you were related until shooting began?

    We first met when I auditioned in L.A. He said, “You remind me of the bad guys in my high school.” I said, “I am the bad guys from your high school!” Then we filmed in Acu?a, Mexico. My family from San Antonio visited the set. My Uncle Rudy says, “Who’s that?” I say, “Robert Rodriguez, the director.” He whistles at Robert, “Hey! Say hello to your second cousin Danny!” I was like, “What’s up, cousin? Make my role bigger!” But he didn’t. He said, “Danny, you can do more with your face than most actors can with dialogue.” I’m walking around with no shirt, all these tattoos, people asking for my autograph. Robert says, “They think you’re the star.” I said, “You mean I’m not?” Nobody really knew [lead actor] Antonio Banderas at the time. He was quiet—unlike me. [Laughs]

    特雷霍玉米餅和特雷霍咖啡連鎖店出售的周邊產品。兩年前,特雷霍開過甜甜圈店,每天下午2點就售罄了。圖片來源:Photograph by Joe Toreno for Fortune

    后來羅伯特為你量身打造了平民英雄形象彎刀。彎刀這個人物是如何從《非常小特務》里的一個小角色發展到第二部,還有第三部電影主角的?

    羅伯特把彎刀叔叔的角色加入《非常小特務》后,很快又(跟導演昆汀·塔倫蒂諾)拍了電影《刑房》,他們倆拍了個假的電影預告片。其中之一就是電影《彎刀》。首映式上每個人都說:“你一定要把那部片拍出來。”彎刀是墨西哥的第一個超級英雄。后來萬圣節時我看到8歲的孩子打扮成彎刀,差點哭出來。

    遇到過那么多演員,跟誰合作最讓你有追星的沖動?

    我們拍《盜火線》跟羅伯特·德尼羅合作的時候。后來羅伯特(羅德里格茲)不知怎么的又找到他拍了《彎刀》!我在片場看到他,他說:“好好好,就是你總給我打電話,嗯?”我當時只想說:“德尼羅先生,我幫您端杯咖啡過來好嗎?”(笑)

    你留給這個世界上最經典的角色有哪些?《絕命毒師》第二季里烏龜背上馱著你的頭,讓不少粉絲大為震驚。

    《非常小特務》、《彎刀》、《王牌播音員》,還有《泡泡男孩》。我認識的墨西哥人都喜歡《黑幫悍將》。拍《絕命毒師》那會我記得經紀人說:“丹尼,你要當好萊塢第一了,因為你要騎著烏龜穿越沙漠。”我還以為他說的是動畫片,難道真要騎一頭超大的烏龜?“不不,其實只是你的頭而已。”(笑)

    你很多角色都有些下流,但你也演過一些嚴肅的電影,比如瑪吉·吉倫哈爾主演的《雪莉寶貝》,講述了一個吸毒成癮有前科的母親。你什么時候對自己說:“等等,我真會表演嗎?”

    我在西太平洋戒毒所當戒毒顧問。幾年前,兒子吉爾伯特讓我看了一部他寫的以毒品為主題的電影,名字叫《兒子的心聲》。有一場戲里,我要演崩潰哭泣。之前我在電影里從來沒崩潰過。我以為自己像約翰·韋恩一樣是個硬漢,但我兒子……他太聰明了。他讓我回想他小時候,給我看了一張1985年的照片,當時他還是個小嬰兒。然后,我一下忍不住哭了。我在父母的葬禮上都沒有哭。

    Robert went on to create the vigilante-hero character Machete for you. How did he evolve from a minor character in the Spy Kids franchise to fronting two, soon-to-be three features?

    After he put Uncle Machete in Spy Kids, Robert did the Grindhouse movies [with director Quentin Tarantino], and they needed fake movie trailers. One was for a Machete movie. At the premiere, everybody was like, “You have to do that movie.” Machete was the first Mexican superhero. I was almost in tears when I saw 8-year-old kids dressed like him on Halloween.

    Of all the people you’ve worked with, when have you felt the most starstruck?

    With Robert De Niro, when we did Heat. Then Robert [Rodriguez] somehow got him to do Machete! I see him on the set and he says, “Well, well, well, number one on the call sheet now, eh?” I was like, “Can I get you some coffee, Mr. De Niro?” [Laughs]

    For what roles are you most often recognized when you’re out in the world? Seeing your severed head on a turtle in season two of Breaking Bad left quite an impression with fans.

    Spy Kids. Machete. Anchorman. Bubble Boy. And every Mexican I know loves Blood In, Blood Out. For Breaking Bad, I remember my agent saying, “Danny, you’re going to have a Hollywood first: You’re going to go across the desert on a turtle.” I’m thinking it’s a cartoon, or a really big turtle? “Actually, no. It’s just your head.” [Laughs]

    A lot of your roles lean campy, but you’ve also acted in serious films like Maggie Gyllenhaal’s Sherrybaby about a mother who’s a drug-addicted ex-con. When did you think to yourself, “Wait, I can actually act?”

    I’m a drug counselor at a place called Western Pacific Rehab. A few years ago, my son Gilbert cast me in a drug-themed movie he wrote called From a Son. There’s a scene where I break down and cry. I’d never had to do that in a movie. I was thinking I’d do a John Wayne, tough-guy thing, but my son…shit, he’s so brilliant. He reminded me of stuff from when he was young. He showed me a picture of us from 1985, when he was a little baby. Then, I couldn’t stop crying. I didn’t even cry at my parents’ funerals.

    特雷霍的銀十字項鏈和手表。圖片來源:Photograph by Joe Toreno for Fortune

    那一刻你對自己吃驚了嗎?

    特別震驚。我當時想,“哇,好吧,這肯定是在演戲。”

    你兒子用了你叔叔吉爾伯特的名字,你說他在你十幾歲時帶你走上了犯罪道路。你還記得那段時間嗎?

    我父親家里有11口人,吉爾伯特最小。他只比我大6歲。我沒有兄弟姐妹,所以他就像我哥哥一樣。不幸的是,他持械搶劫還有吸毒。我14歲時他就教我搶劫了。他給了我一把鋸掉的獵槍,讓我在鏡子前練習。“把錢給我,臭娘們。給你一巴掌!”

    算是你的第一份表演工作吧。

    (笑)是的。我們搭伙搶劫了一家亞洲人開的雜貨店,叫“遠東市場”。當時有把左輪手槍,但必須用手握住,不然就會散架。我沖進去喊:“給我錢!給我錢!”那個女人從收銀臺里拿了8美元給我。我抓住錢,這時有個家伙從后面沖出來,拿著斧頭還尖叫著,追著我們沿著連克新大道一直跑!

    你現在對當初犯下的罪行有何感想?

    我很后悔。我不是壞人,但也從不讓任何人占便宜。在監獄里,要么當獵手,要么就是獵物。我和朋友庫奇弄了個保護圈,可以保護圈里的孩子,還有在街上結婚的同性戀。我出獄后收到過當時被保護的孩子送來的卡片。他們的父母也來道謝。

    你父母看到你成功了嗎?

    我媽媽看到了。我爸爸只看到我改邪歸正,但沒有看到我演戲。如果他看到會笑我的。不過即便我在《盜火線》里跟羅伯特·德尼羅合作之后,媽媽也只是說:“孩子,找個工作吧。”2008年,我拍了《年輕和騷動不安的一族》,她確實很高興。她請了四個朋友一起看,他們都在激動地喊:“哦,天吶。”那一刻,我很成功。

    這些年來,你拍了很多廣告,產品從士力架到美國退休人員協會都有,現在你是勃起功能障礙產品Giddy的代言人。在你看來解決禁忌話題有什么吸引力?

    我們生活的社會里什么都不說,高中不談避孕套,也不介紹節育。我們絕對不會談論勃起功能障礙,尤其是在拉美裔社區。但我認識的男性都經歷過。我認為這就像我做的每一件事情,教人們閹割狗,警告孩子們應該了解的毒品知識,首先要表現得很酷。要有一張這樣的臉才能夠觸動他們。其實不是“丹尼·特雷霍”這么說,而是《非常小特務》里的那個人,《盜火線》里的那個人,《殺人三部曲》里的那個人在說。人們會想,“好吧,聽聽這家伙要說什么。”(財富中文網)

    譯者:馮豐

    審校:夏林

    Did you surprise yourself in that moment?

    Completely. I thought, “Wow, okay, this must be acting.”

    Your son is named after your Uncle Gilbert, who you’ve said led you down a path of crime when you were a teenager. What do you remember about that time?

    My dad came from a family of 11, and Gilbert was the youngest. He was only six years older than me. I had no siblings, so he was like my older brother. Unfortunately, he was also an armed robber and a drug addict. He showed me how to rob when I was 14. He gave me a sawed-off shotgun and put me in front of a mirror to practice. “Give me your money, bitch. I’ll slap you!”

    Your first acting job.

    [Laughs] Yes. We robbed an Asian grocery store together called Far East Market in Burbank. We had a revolver, but you had to hold it just so or it would fall apart. I go, “Give me the money! Give me the money!” The woman gives me $8 from the cash register. I grabbed it, and we ran down Lankershim as this guy comes out of the back, screaming, with a hatchet!

    How do you feel now about the crimes you committed?

    I feel regret. I’ve never been mean, but I’ve also never let anybody take advantage of me. In prison you’re predator or prey. My friend Cookie and I had a protection ring for young kids coming in, including for gay couples who’d been married on the streets. When I got out of the pen, I’d get cards from kids we protected. Their parents also said thank you.

    Did your own parents live to see your success?

    My mom did. My dad saw me get sober but never saw me get into acting. He would have laughed. Even my mom was like, “Get a job, mijo,” even after I’d worked with Robert De Niro in Heat! She did get excited when I was on The Young and the Restless in 2008. She had four of her friends over to watch, and they were like, “Oh, my God.” That was it. I’d made it.

    Over the years you’ve appeared in dozens of commercials and ads—selling products from Snickers to AARP—and you’re now a spokesman for the erectile dysfunction product Giddy. What appealed to you about tackling that taboo subject?

    We don’t talk anything in our society—condoms in high school, birth control. We definitely don’t talk about erectile dysfunction, especially in the Hispanic community. I don’t know a man who hasn’t experienced it. I think it’s like everything I do—teaching people to neuter their dogs, warning kids about drugs you need to show them you’re cool. You need a face like this to get through to them. Not so much as “Danny Trejo” but the guy from Spy Kids, the guy from Heat, the guy from Desperado. People think, “Okay, I want to hear what this guy has to say.”

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